Sunday, June 26, 2016

Sewing McCall's 7094 Top

I'll start with the positives. I like the pleated detail below the yolk, the fabric is light and bright, and ... I think the list ends there. At least until several reworks to make the top wearable.
Handmade summer sleeveless top from voile like fabric and M7094 sewing pattern
My biggest complaint with this pattern is the sizing. It's waaaay too big. I realize it's supposed to be a loose fitting top, but I could have fit two of me in it when I first tried it on. I should have made a muslin, but I wasn't really attached to this fabric and figured this can be the muslin if it didn't work out. Plus, I was overly optimistic that the fit wouldn't matter as much on this design. I removed ~1" from the length of the torso on the pattern before cutting to adjust for my height and decided I could take it in a bit more later if needed. That "bit" turned out to be ~3" on each side and I would have done more if it didn't start distorting the sleeve opening and the overall silhouette. Maybe with a crape-like fabric the volume wouldn't be as noticeable because of the drape. However, my fabric had a little bit of body to it and when I first put it on, the top looked like a parachute. I didn't even take pictures, but you can imagine based on how loose-fitting the top still looks after taking out all that fabric.

M7094 pattern back view A
The other problem was that while I like the curved hem on the pattern picture, the proportion was way off. I already shortened the torso before even cutting into the fabric, but decided to leave the bottom as designed in case I wanted to wear the shirt tucked in. The front was a little long, but the back completely covered my bottom and looked more like a dress than a shirt. No matter how I tried to wear it, it just didn't look right so I finally shortened it by 2-3" in the front and 5-6" at the center back and drew my own curve to the sides because I wanted to keep the side length as is. After all these modifications the top was starting to finally look a bit more like the picture and something I could wear out in public without looking like I was wearing an over-sized nightgown.

In terms of sewing, the collar and yolk came out just like the line drawing on the pattern, but there were several steps that called for hand-sewing. I wanted to follow the instructions the first time I made it, but I'm pretty sure changing the order a bit next time could eliminate some of the hand-sewing. All in all, I still think M7094, Inverted Notch Collar Top, has some interesting details, but the pattern needed a lot of modifications to make it wearable for me. Now that I worked through most of the issues, I'll probably try making it again, this time in a drapier fabric and see if I like the results better.  
Summer sewing sleeveless voile top bright abstract print
For the final picture I wanted to share this shot with the cloud reflection in the sunglasses. Totally an accident and it's not a great shot of me or the shirt, but I thought it was a neat effect :)


Thanks for stopping by. I really appreciate your comments.